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Ah!
To be back in the north woods of Ontario eh! The bush, the northern
lights, and the friendliest people on earth. Adventure racing,
Atikokan style! Team Enviromark/Chirosport comprised of me, Frances,
Ron and Sue Stonitsch arrived in this northwest Ontario town with
high expectations and a ting of excitement on Friday, May 21,
2004. Check in was located in the recreation center where we met
Garth Stromberg, the race director. Twenty seven coed teams of
four from throughout Ontario, Manitoba, and the northern U.S.
had gathered for the 36 hour Atikokan Adventure Race. Teams were
directed to their gear drop area located inside the rec center/curling
rink. Ah! Couldn't get better than this, inside, out of the weather
and the bugs? After the gear checks and a bit of socializing with
our fellow competitors and friends we organized and chilled waiting
for the pre-race dinner and briefing.
After
a delicious dinner of salad and wild rice, we watched a video
of last years highly successful Raid the North Extreme which was
also held in Atikokan. We were welcomed by local government officials
and the Superintendent of the Quetico Provincial Park. A local
team of the official's and another with the Superintendent were
actually racing! What a credit to Garth and the town of Atikokan
for this deep level of support of adventure racing!
The
race format was such that there were to be three transition areas.
Each team could have three boxes, one for biking, trekking, and
canoeing. The race staff would transport the boxes and bikes.
At the briefing, five 1:50,000 maps were distributed along with
updated GIS maps showing logging roads and an even more recent
satellite image of the area. Needless to say, in a remote wilderness
such as this, roads were being built and being reclaimed by nature
on a regular basis. Garth's briefing was brief and straight forward.
Teams could navigate where they saw fit, no contrived routes or
limitations. And only 12 CP's in 100 miles or 160 kilometers for
you Canadian readers! Yeh! With the anticipation building, we
set off to design our route.
The
race was scheduled to begin at 0400. Thank God, Garth is not punctual!
I was up at 0315, dressed and ready to rock and roll. At 0348,
Franny asked, "Have you seen Ron and Sue?" Oh no! At
0315, I had rapped my knuckle against the window of their SUV
where they were dozing. Sue had sat up with a dazed look, kinda
like a deer in the headlights stare. In hindsight, I guess she
was still dozing! At 0348, staring through the steamed up windows,
I loudly proclaimed, "Wake up! You have 12 minutes till the
race starts!" I expected pandemonium, nope, still the dazed
look, until it sunk in, the Chief was not kidding! Get UP! I have
never witnessed two people moving so fast! First to the bathroom,
then to the clothes, then to the bathroom again, then to the clothes
again, then, finally to the start line. WOW! Although neither
was completely ready, they toed the line with great excitement,
wondering what they had forgotten or failed to do. At least we
hadn't started the race 10 minutes after everyone else. Thank
you Garth and Thank you Ron and Sue!
The
race started officially at 0430 under clear skies and mid 40 degree
temperatures. A police car escorted the bike pack out of Atikokan
to the northeast. Initially, the fast peloton cruised on paved
roads. The route then turned to gravel and the peloton broke up.
The ride to CP1 was 18.5 miles. At approximately mile 16, on a
steep downhill section, a female racer from Team Whistle Pig out
of Minneapolis crashed in the sand on the road. I was right behind
her. As I got to her side, I observed that she was unconscious,
ashen color, with snoring respirations. I immediately asked that
someone get the cell phone out and call for assistance. Ron meanwhile
offered to ride to CP1. As I conducted the secondary assessment,
she started to regain consciousness. Thank God! In minutes she
had regained full consciousness and movement of all extremities.
Once she stabilized, we continued to CP1. As we biked, the race
staff passed us in a support vehicle. As a footnote: Team Whistle
Pig continued and finished 21st! We arrived at CP1 at 0530 in
13th place. Continuing on the bikes, CP2 was located on Road 633,
just south of the village of Kawene, 9 miles from CP1. We arrived
at CP2 at 6:21 in 9th place. Continuing for another 4.5 miles,
CP 3 was reached at 6:43 still in 9th place. The route to CP4
was 6 miles. We arrived at 7:25, now in 10th place. The initial
biking leg was 38 miles. We had completed it in 3 hours for an
average speed of 12.6 mph.
We
had arranged with Garth to have Sue's 12 volt breast pump in a
vehicle at TA1. She was beginning to become somewhat uncomfortable,
as she is nursing her beautiful 6 month old daughter, Cadence
and producing copious amounts of milk. Naturally, in adventure
racing you expect the unexpected. Yup! It happened! No pump! The
portable, manually operated one would have to do. After a 20 minute
transition, it was to the trek and CP5 which was an unmanned CP
six miles deep in the Quetico.
The trail was laced with beaver dams and river crossings. We trail
ran the six miles to CP5. On the way back we fast packed and ran
the down hills as Sue now had to pump. With milk flying on the
down hills, teams who were passing us going the other direction
couldn't quite believe what they were seeing! As Sue puts it,
"you got to do what you got to do". And as I quickly
learned, if Sue ain't happy, we ain't happy! Just kidding! Sue
is absolutely one of the easiest persons to race with I have ever
experienced. As a team, we had decided to take the longer route
to CP6. The choices were either bushwhack through dense forest
and swamps for approximately 18 miles or run on trails for 13
miles, then run alongside Trans-Canada Highway for 8.5 miles,
up and down a logging road for 5 miles, and a bushwhack for a
2 mile round trip for approximately 28.5 miles. The faster route
paid off. Although the short two mile bushwhack was memorable,
through bog and fallen timber, we arrived at the north shore of
Tilly lake at 1:51 p.m. now in 8th place. Running on the shoulder
of the road in wet shoes and socks took its toll on our feet.
Sue continued to pump to the stares and disbelief of passing motorists!
Adventure racers are different! Isn't it wonderful? Walking in
the cold bog water was a welcome relief. During this entire trek,
we had maintained a 4 mph pace, or 15 minute/mile average. This
pace count kept us orientated to the map and our location. On
to CP7/TA2. We arrived at 3:08 p.m. now in 7th place. After a
very quick transition, only 19 minutes! We were on the bikes for
an 8 mile ride to CP8. We arrived at 4:05 p.m. still in 7th place.
Another 8.5 miles of riding on an unimproved logging road took
us to CP9, the transition to the final canoeing leg. This biking
section was challenging to all teams. The roads were not on the
topo maps. By using the satellite image, we traced the road onto
the topo. A couple of teams spent many hours navigating the interconnecting
logging roads. Due to this, we arrived at CP9 at 5:13 p.m., now
in 5th place with a 36 minute lead over Subaru Canada and trailing
the 4th place team, Wilderness Supply Co. by less than an hour.
Then, things started getting dicey. Apparently, only the paddle
gear boxes for the anticipated top 5 or 6 teams had been initially
moved to CP9. Much
to our dismay, (we handled the news quite well I thought) our
boxes and paddles were not there. The black flies were memorable,
flying in any and all body orifices. They were just the size to
feel them go down as you gagged then swallowed. Only a swig of
water would wash them down. Luckily, they were tasteless, and
fortunately, they hadn't started biting yet. Probably too cold.
I unfortunately, thinking light is right, wore only Pearl Izumi
tri shorts and a light top. Burr! Now the fingers were numb and
the general body shivers were occurring. Luckily, the transition
volunteers were two of the kindest, most accommodating people.
The husband gave me his fleece off his back and the wife turned
on the Ford Escape heater to high. Along with the 12 volt breast
pump for Sue which had arrived, a welcome relief I might add,
we patiently waited for 1.5 hours until Garth finally arrived
with our stuff. Franny
and I sat in the front seat and Sue sat huddled in the back seat
with a huge black lab named Dakota. While we warmed and ate, Ron
paced impatiently outside, watching over our canoes. When we had
arrived at the TA, Ron and I had immediately "claimed"
two of the new Souris River 18' Wilderness Kevlar canoes. This
choice would ultimately payoff. There is absolutely no doubt in
my mind, the Souris River Kevlar canoe with the flexible rib system
is the toughest, fastest, best tracking canoe I have ever paddled.
After Garth's arrival with our stuff, we quickly changed into
warm, water proof clothing for the long cold overnight paddle
ahead. Unfortunately, we had lost two hours of paddling in the
day light. This loss of daylight would ultimately be our greatest
undoing. We left the transition area via the Atikokan River at
7:13 p.m. now in 6th place, passed in transition by Subaru Canada.
The
initial paddle to the west down the Atikokan River was quite a
workout. The river serpentined for approximately 3 miles. Multiple
log crossings were encountered. Franny would get out; I would
crawl up the canoe to the front and get out, then haul the canoe
over. Then, we would reverse the process. Luckily, we avoided
getting our feet wet. At one point, a bald eagle, perched high
on a tree top amusingly watched. 18' canoes, in swift current,
being steered by spoon kayak paddles was quite frustrating. I
longed for my bent shaft ZRE race paddle. I was sweating like
a steer! The
river never seemed to end, until finally, Crooked Pine Lake came
into view. Spirits at this point were high. The lake surface was
glass like. The sun was just setting. Surreal beauty and tranquility!
For Sure! The paddle, the entire length of Crooked Pine Lake was
9 miles in length. Past McGinnis Point we paddled under the northern
lights. At this point, we were paddling at approximately 5 miles
per hour. We were feeling good and warm. We were heading to the
portage around the upper and lower falls. As were neared the end
of the lake, we could hear the falls, or so we thought. Unfortunately,
the wrong falls! We had inadvertently gotten into a bay north
of our intended location. These falls were coming into the lake!
There was no portage. We stopped, reoriented the map, and GOT
COLD! We paddled numb until we reached a set of rapids leading
into Magnetic Lake. At this point, I made the decision to quickly
go to shore, start a fire, warm up, get dry clothes on and proceed.
At first I felt like I was next to be voted out of the Survivor
tribe. I had a small Bic lighter. Remember, light is right. The
flame from this small lighter is about ¼" long. Not
long enough to even get birch bark started let alone dry grass.
After burning a hole in my glove and blistering my finger, the
flame finally ignited the kindling! Thank God! I survived another
tribal council! As we were warming, more, thoroughly chilled teams
came to shore asking if we would share the fire. You bet! After
about 30 minutes we were ready to continue. When we left, there
were maybe 3-4 other teams huddled around the crackling, aromatic
fire. Back in the canoes, Franny and I negotiated the first set
of rapids in the dark. And I mean dark. Our headlamps would not
cut the blackness and running the rapids was blind. Rocks, either
sticking out from the surface or barely under the surface were
not visible. At the end of the rapids we solidly smacked a rock
but luckily glanced off. Ron and Sue were not so lucky! As they
negotiated the rapids and approached the rock, they apparently
hit it broadside, causing them to swamp. In 38 degree water with
an outside temperature around 32 degrees, the potential for severe
hypothermia was acute. Now we had rescue and ultimately survival
to deal with in the Canadian wilderness, the only rescue access
by float plane in the morning! Luckily, Ron and Sue were able
to swim to shore with their canoe. The packs stayed in. I was
able to retrieve the floating gear with the exception of the throw
bag. Franny got out of our canoe and guided Ron and Sue through
the bush back to the warmth of the camp fire. Thank God for the
camp fire. The teams who were huddled around the fire, realizing
the seriousness of the situation, allowed Ron and Sue to move
in close. Both stripped out of their wet clothes and put on a
few extras that Frances and I had in our packs. They were thoroughly
chilled. I was extremely concerned with Sue. Her body was being
taxed beyond its limits. She had to be thoroughly warmed before
we continued. As a team, we decided to remain at the fire until
Ron and Sue were warm and dry. We would continue at first light.
Now, only five hours away. During our stay, we took on the new
role of campground hosts. In all, I would guess that at least
15 teams rested and warmed around the now three campfires. Many
stories were told and many shoes, bike helmets, clothing articles
were melted. I remember as I lay beneath my cushy space blanket,
dreaming of Jamaica, someone kept moving my feet away from the
fire. I remember my big toe glowing at one point, the urgent "I
smell something burning" cry and the 6'5 guy who took up
½ the fire ring as he lay sleeping. Ah,
the memories! Luckily, we were warm and dry and ready to continue
at 0500 a.m. After a short 1 mile paddle on Magnetic Lake we reached
the portage. The portage was 1 mile in length. Somewhere, early
on in the portage, Ron proudly proclaimed his dislike for carrying
canoes, with wood yokes. I guess you can't take a south Chicago
boy into the Canadian wilderness and expect different. Apparently,
he hasn't held the weight of the world on his shoulders before!
Ha! I on the other hand, thoroughly enjoyed the light weight (47#)
canoe. Although, I have to admit, I prefer padded yokes. The morning
dawned clear, sunny, warm, with the wind and current to our backs.
Yeh! From the portage, it was another 3 miles to CP10. Finally,
CP10 was reached at 6:55 a.m. We were now in 16th place. It had
taken us 11:42 minutes to reach CP10. We quickly pushed off from
shore and paddled 3.5 miles down the length of Sapawe Lake to
CP11 at 7:45 a.m. We were now in 15th place as we had passed a
team on the Sapawe Lake. The canoes had to be portaged a short
distance across a road to the Atikokan River for the final 13
mile push to the finish. At this point, the river followed the
Canadian National Railroad tracks. Multiple rapids, a couple sets
of falls, and culvert shoots under the rail tracks were encountered.
At this point, Ron and Sue had regained their confidence in running
rapids. In fact, they decided to take one backwards! This paddle
section was quite enjoyable and the rapids were a hoot. At one
point, Franny and I almost shot a water falls. We were headed
down when I noticed a log jam at the head. I yelled back! She
grabbed the bushes on shore. We
stopped. Luckily, we had the throw bag and were able to drag the
canoe back upstream. Disaster averted. At this point we passed
another team. Ron was once again excited about the prospects of
a portage. This one along the rail tracks for a short distance,
over a bushwhack and back into the water. After a short set of
rapids, and a quick portage we arrived at CP12 at 11:14 a.m. In
total, the canoe leg had covered approximately 33 miles. We had
been unlucky with the capsize, but were fortunate to have experienced
the river in the day light. It is truly a beautiful waterway.
Now, only a 1 mile portage to the finish. Quickly, the canoes
were thrown over our (my) head, gear and paddles were grabbed
by Frances and off to the finish line we went. Meanwhile, grunting
and groaning, Ron and Sue double teamed their canoe and gear across
the finish line. We crossed as a team at 12:07 p.m. in 32:37 minutes.
Due to the fact that we had waited for 1.5 hours for our box and
gear, and were assessed 30 minutes at the transition, our final
adjusted time was 30:37. Officially, we finished in 15th place,
the third U.S. finisher behind our friends AGS/InfiterraSports
and Mandatory Gear.com.
Although
disappointed with our final standing, we had quite literally survived
a potentially disastrous situation. We had raced hard, smart,
and had given the race our best effort. We couldn't ask for more.
Thank you to all of our families and friends who e-mailed us and
followed our progress on www.sleepmonsters.ca and who e-mailed
us encouraging words. Sorry we frightened you during our campout!
Thank you to John Hobbs and Enviromark for your sponsorship. Without
your support we couldn't do what we do, see what we see, experience
what we experience and achieve what we achieve. And finally, thank
you to Garth, all the volunteers, and the community of Atikokan.
May your dream of Atikokan becoming the adventure racing capital
of Ontario and all of Canada come true. We support you and definitely
will be back! Gerry Voelliger
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